Forum Title: Installing exterior trim on aluminium clad windows
I decided to replace the windows in my home with new construction Jeld-Wen aluminium clad windows due to the fact that the old windows were not properly installed and have alot of rot in the brick mold and window sills. I ordered the first window and want to know what is the best practice for trimming out the exterior. I have a Hardie Lap siding and will be installing the brickmolding around the window. All would be well except for the fact that there is no sill nose on these aluminium clad windows like there were on the traditional wood windows. On my existing window I have brick mold on top and the sides with the side brick mold running down to the sill nose. Is it normal practice to put brick mold on all four sides of the window and make a picture frame? I have attached links to the pictures of the old and new sill. Any help would be appreciated. http://www.myphoto.com/dijastrow/3203/13230 http://www.myphoto.com/dijastrow/3203/13231 http://www.myphoto.com/dijastrow/3203/13232
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: EVERETT CORTEZ (Walnut Creek, CA), 01/23/2019

Welcome to the forums! #1 - staining isn't all that difficult but you must do 1 side without stopping. If the stain dries on 1 section before the adjoining wood is stained,it will leave an unsightly lap mark. #2 - a lot depends on what you want the finished product to look like, generally I don't use a wood conditioner. Besides making the stain color more uniform they will also cause the stain to be lighter in color [the wood can't obsorb the stain as readily] #3 - oil base stain should be easier for you to work with as it dries slower. I like to apply it with a brush and wipe off the excess with a rag. Oil base varnish/poly will deepen the colors in the wood/stain, it will also amber some as it ages. Oil dries to a harder film and will wear better than waterbased. Water based poly dries clear and does not change the look of the wood or stain any [other than sheen] The stain must be good and dry before water based can be applied over an oil stain. #4 - it doesn't make much difference to me if they are hanging or not but I've stained 1,000's of doors. You do want the lock set removed [preferably stained and finished before they are installed] The hinges are ok - you can easily wipe the stain off of them. #5 - You want to make sure the doors are clean prior to staining. You can do a lot of cleaning by wiping down the wood with denatured alchol - it usually removes finger prints and ink marks. You can sand prior to staining with 120-150 grit - be sure to sand with the direction of the grain!! Cross sanding can leave scratches that will show when stained. Don't sand the stain coat! Each coat of varnish/poly should be sanded with 150-220 grit and dust removed before the next coat is applied. It's always a good idea to seal the top and bottom edge of the door. This well help the door to resist obsorbing moisture [humidity] If the top of a door can be seen from above [like coming down a stair case] you should stain the top edge. Stain doesn't seal well, varnish/poly will seal the edges. You might want to start with closet doors or the back side of door that isn't always seen. That way by the time you get to the prominent doors you shouldn't have any trouble doing a good job

- LOUISE HUGHES (Springfield, IL), 02/24/2019

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